The UB Post

Media Credit: Meredith Barr Mama's Crab and Artichoke Dip belongs on the DEA's Schedule III narcotics list for its high potential for abuse—it's that good.

Media Credit: Meredith Barr A Crabcake, Mama's overflowing cup of Macaroni and Cheese and mashed potatoes make for a good winter meal.

Mama's rating = 3 1/2 ravens

Mama's on the Half Shell, located in Canton Square, has crab and artichoke dip that you will crave from the moment the flavors meet your tongue. It's why my friends and I keep going to Mama's. Made up of five different cheeses—Gouda, Boursin, cheddar, Swiss and cream cheese—and chunks of artichoke hearts served in a fresh-baked bread bowl, the Crab and Artichoke Dip ($9.99) cannot be passed up. It's that good.

Carrots and celery sticks accompany this inviting concoction as well as crackers, which seem unnecessary, even offensive, considering how luscious the bread is after slathering it with the smooth, creamy dip. The first taste will have you wondering when you can come back for more. The last bite will have you wondering if you even need your entrée.

Pictures and historical artifacts lining the walls and the pressed tin ceiling create an eclectic and rustic décor in this tavern-style oyster house. The narrow passageway between the long bar and wall of windows made the wait for a table, for those without barstools, a game of human pinball.

The second-floor dining room's black walls, red-and-black velvet curtains, and sconces create a formal Victorian feel while the mismatched silverware, simple side chairs and logo-laden coffee mugs evoke a diner aura.

Not only does the restaurant beg for more space, but so too will your stomach after Mama's sizable portions. Appetizers easily make a meal, and half your entrée will surely go home with you.

Our party of eight waited two hours before finally being reunited with that stellar crab and artichoke dip (well worth the wait). Bacon Wrapped Scallops ($13.99) were bland, but a member of our group said the Seafood Chowder ($5.99) was the best he had ever tasted. The tender and perfectly cooked Fried Calamari with a sweet and sour dipping sauce ($8.99) didn't last long.

Tuna Tar Tare ($10.99) is a standard favorite for one in our party who relishes the fresh and flavorful cubed delicacy. Freshly shucked Blue Point oysters on the half shell (priced daily) and the Combination Steamer of clams, shrimp, oysters and mussels ($15.99) made two at our table very happy, while a blackened Tuna Steak sandwich ($8.99), though tasty alongside a heaping helping of shoestring fries, arrived overcooked.

A Crab Cake Platter ($14.99 for one crab cake; $22.99 for two) with a side of very lumpy mashed potatoes was enjoyed until a piece of shell spoiled the fun. Fortunately, a redeeming cup of Mama's Mac & Cheese ($2.75) with a baked topping of breadcrumbs and dripping, buttery strands of cheese made it all better.

Though no one in our group had room for dessert, a past encounter with White Chocolate Bread Pudding with a Kentucky Bourbon Sauce ($4.95) is well remembered.

The service was attentive and efficient. Weekend reservations are not accepted, and waiting nearly an hour is usual. With something on the menu for everyone, Mama's can easily please both palates and wallets alike. Though some items are better than others, the crab dip is reason enough to go and makes forgiving minor shortcomings easy.

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meredith.barr@ubalt.edu

Mama's on the Half Shell
2901 O'Donnell St.
Canton Square

phone–410.276.3160

hours–11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mon.–Thurs.;
11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Fri. – Sat.;
9 a.m. to 12 a.m. Sun.;
bar open nightly until 2 a.m.

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